FISKARS

Caring for Your Pinking Shears Use full cuts. Always have the fabric between your blades when you cut. Never open and close the blades without fabric between them. Pinking shears cannot be sharpened, although it maybe possible to regrind the blade edge. The easiest and quickest way to finish seams is to trim them with a Pinking Shears or a Rotary Cutter with a pinking blade. This works well on all fabrics except those that ravel easily. Hold both sides of the seam together and trim, then separate and press open.

Splattering: This is a really easy effect that you can use to match with any photo and instantly create a jolly background! All you have to do is splatter a piece of cardstock with different colours of acrylic paint. Select paints that pick out the colours in your photos. Next, place the card on a large sheet of newspaper, wet an old toothbrush and load it with paint. Then, spay paint on the card! The harder the toothbrush is pressed, the bigger the blobs of spay. Messy but great fun!

Edges: Tearing paper to you, you will make appear a white irregular edge. To adjust the size of the edge, tear delicately on the other way to the outside of the paper. To create a precise edge, draw first your motif on the paper backside with a light pencil. Thanks to a wet cotton-bud, go through the outline several times to soak the paper. Tear delicately your paper and you will notice that the outline is followed. Let dry if you want to ink the edge. Decolour picture edges: Sand the edges of your picture. Dip the sanded edges into water then into some diluted bleach during 30 seconds. Rub delicately with your fingers. Rinse with water to stop the effect. Let it dry.

Embossing means that the image is raised slightly – when we flip an embossed image over, forming a slight depression and giving a mirror image, this image is called deboss. Why not try alternately embossing and debossing a row of motifs? For large areas or open designs, you only need to emboss around the edge of a shape. Do not “color in” the shape, that will cause undesirable lines in the middle of your design. Use the largest stylus possible, as there is a reduced risk of pushing through the paper. Thicker paper or cardstock is ideal for embossing and create great results. Very thin paper tends to tear easily and is best avoided. Whatever surface you emboss on, it makes it much easier to emboss if you rub the back of it with wax paper. This acts as a lubricant and your stylus goes much more smoothly along the surface. When embossing thin metal, you can add a piece of thin craft foam underneath, which will add more depth to your embossed design. Be careful not to press to hard into the softer surface as it may cause the stylus to “tear” the metal. Remember, you can emboss a design and then cut out around it and add it as an embellishment to other surfaces.

To disguise the backs of eyelets or brads, simply cover them up. On tags, if you don’t want it to be obvious, try using matching card or tie broad sheer ribbon through the eyelet. For a more decorative approach, try using printed paper in a strip or punch out a circle and attach behind the eyelet with double-sided tape. However, one of the easiest ways to avoid exposing the rough edges on cards is to use eyelets on co-ordinating layers that are attached either with sticky fixers or just flat with glue and so don’t penetrate the main base.

Outlining each patchwork section of card adds definition. Instead of using a black outline pen, try adding stitching.

You can make a simple corner with Corner Punches but you can also make some more creative results like these ones, which are very simple to do…
First thing you have to do is to fold your paper into a half. Check it’s alined by flipping it over. And punch! Do next corner… and punch it all the way round.
If you wish to punch a two layered paper, use paper not exceeding 80g.
Open it up and fold it the other way and punch those last 2 corners!

How to get started in scrapbooking: There really is no right or wrong way to scrapbook - it is totally up to the creator's, your ideal as to what works best for you. A minimum of materials is needed! A pair of scissors for general purpose and an other little one for precise cutting A paper trimmer (30 cm) for more cutting precision and particularly to cut pictures and cards. A craft knife and a ruler! A pencil and an eraser Archival markers and pens designed specifically for use in scrapbooks Acid-free glue stick, double-sided adhesive, 3D foam pads An (30 x 30 cm) scrapbooking binder to range your pages Cutting mat ShapeCutter Plus and templates Plain and patterned papers – Acid-free and Lignin-Free to protect your pictures and creations Then you will enlarge your materials to: Punches, Stamps, Embellishments, storage accessories… Start with a hard work surface, preferably one that can be left open and accessible for as long as you intend to work. You might want to gather up a few scrapbook magazines as a source of inspiration and guidance. Here are a few simple steps to help you with the creative process. - Make a selection of photos. It helps to determine a theme or focus for the page. You can mat them with coloured cardstock. - Write word to complete your photographs. You can journal your words on a sticky-note. Reserve place for your journaling in your layout. - Title your page and reserve space for your heading! - Select your papers in according to the page's mood, then decide which colors will dominate the layout and which ones will serve as the supporting colors. - Finally, choose your embellishments. Remember that the goal of a scrapbook page is to communicate the "who, what, where, when, why" of your photos. Don't focus too much on making everything absolutely perfect - more importantly, let things flow and evolve naturally. If you feel like tearing the paper instead of cutting with a straight trimmer, well that's just fine. If you want to layer vellum paper over your photos, then go for it! Just follow whatever style or design speaks to you, as this will capture your true essence!

Paper clip and staples are great to hang embellishments or pictures. The Dymo can be used for journaling and heading. Sandpaper allow to mat pictures giving textures. Iron wire can help to create nice embellishments. Compresses can be cut and sawn to create a textured backgroung. Cut flowers or other shapes from printed papers to be used as embellishments. Use any letter support as stencil and create your own letters cutting and painting them as you want. Cut letters from any printed packaging that you can ink or paint. Decorate plain ribbons with relief paint, little punched shapes. You can re-use any old fabrics at home to produce simple appliqué designs. Instead of buying all kinds of new embellishments, have a go at making your own! Wrapping paper can be another source of paper for your layouts. It might be a leftover piece that is too small to wrap anything up in, a piece salvaged from a gift you have been given, or even a sheet that you like too much to use. If you are worried about whether the paper is acid free, you can test it with an acid testing pen. The use of buttons in assorted colours gives a really contemporary and fresh look, whilst also adding dimension and texture.

Save time and waste by punching flowers and other small shapes from your scraps of waste card. Next time you have to create a quick card, you will have a mini stash of flowers and other shapes to use.

To sew button easily without damaging paper, pierce first your paper with a needle and then thread your thread.

Replacing Blades When replacing the blade, take the rotary cutter apart and reassemble in the same sequence. Be sure the new blade is on the side of the cutter that is nearest to the cutting line. Do not overtighten the knurled nut on your cutter when reassembling. This will slow the blade and make cutting much harder. The blade should turn easily and slice through fabric with little resistance. After reassembling your cutter, make a few test cuts to make sure the blade is working properly and to remove any oil left on the blade edge. Don’t throw away your dull blades, save them for cutting batting, paper or craft projects. Safety Always disengage the blade and put it back into housing between each and every cut. Always cut away from your body and away from extra material on the table. Always keep arms, finger and hands away from cutting edge. Always use a cutting mat on a flat surface. For straight cutting, enhanced accuracy and safety, use a ruler. Cleaning of Blades Carefully remove blade from housing of rotary cutter. Place rotary cutter on flat surface. Hold steady with forefinger on center of blade. With paper towel in opposite hand, gently wipe blade. Always wipe away from center past the outside edge of blade. Wiping from the outside to the center could result in injury. To remove sticky substances from blades – hold in center of blade with forefinger and thumb. Immerse blade in hot, soapy water. Rinse with hot water. Place between two pieces of paper towel on flat surface and gently pat dry.

Cutting Mat Care Always place mats on a hard, flat surface while cutting. Store mats flat to avoid warping. Do not roll up. Keep mats away from heat and out of direct sunlight. Freezing temperatures may cause mats to become brittle. Vary where you cut on your mat. If you always cut in the same location, that spot will wear very quickly. Cleaning Your Cutting Mat Clean mats using lukewarm water and mild detergent. Do not use abrasives of solvents. Ruler Care Frequent use of rulers and constant friction with tools can fade measurement markings. To minimize abrasion, store ruler by hanging it from a peg or by standing it on its edge in a letter or napkin holder. Use lukewarm water and mild detergent to clean your rulers. Using Rotary Cutters with Rulers Be sure to hold the ruler steady. Your first cut should be to square up your fabric. Put selvages together and press the fold. Using the grids on your ruler, square up the end. Begin rolling the cutter before you reach the fabric edge and continue across. Otherwise it doesn’t cut through the beginning edgeo f the fabric. Square up the fabric every few inches/cm to make sure you are cutting at right angles to the fold. If you are cutting a width that is not marked on your ruler, mark the width on the backside of the ruler using masking tape.

• The same punch can look very different just by changing the colors, patterns or textures of the papers used. • Combine punches, shapes and stickers. • Layering - by combining and positioning different punch shapes, you can create an endless number of new images. • Cutting - by cutting punched shapes, you can combine paper colors and patterns for unique effects or remove extra portions of the punched shapes. • Snipping - by snipping into the primary shape with a second punch, much as you would use scissors, you can redefine or create a new punched shape. • Adding dimension - by using contrasting paper shades, patterned paper, layering punched shapes or crimping them, you can add depth to your punched shapes. • Punch up side down to better see where you punch or use our unique & revolutionary Squeeze Punch (see product page). • Use a ruler to measure spacing for patterns and borders. With a pencil, lightly draw guidelines on the back of your paper to ensure proper punch placement. Place dots where the center of each punch should be. Check the alignment before punching through the paper. • Use foam pads to stick your punched shape and bring relief ! More information in the product pages

Sanding: Sanding papers: (only for paper which is not painted in the mass. Prefer a paper with white background) Sanding papers, you give texture to your creation. You can combine sanding and creasing. Crease your paper (to soften your paper, spread some water). Level roughly your paper and sand. You can ink to obtain a marble effect. Iron your paper. Sand pictures and papers: Using sand paper, you give a subtle damaged effect. In accordance to the hardness of your paper, you obtain different effects, up to you what you want. Begin to sand lightly and force the pressure to finish.

Buy Several Pairs Decide which scissors will accomplish what tasks and use them for only those purposes. Wipe Blades After Each Use This prevents build-up of lint and other debris that can get caught in the pivot area and interfere with the way your scissors performs. For normal cleaning, wash your scissors with soap and water. Wipe off and dry scissors before using or storing. Oil Scissors Oil your best scissors/shears every once in a while at the screw assembly and between the blades at the pivot area. Wipe excess oil off the blades to prevent staining. Don’t Force Cutting This damages the blades and alignment. If it’s too hard to make the cut, your scissors are too light or too dull to complete the task. Cut heavy things near the pivot, NOT near the tips of the blades. Cut Carefully Hitting a pin can cause jags or nicks in the blades, making it difficult to cut. Don’t Drop Your Scissors Dropping can break or knock your scissors out of alignment. Store Scissors Keep scissors in a safe, dry, cool, clean place. This will avoid damage to them and prevent accidents. Sharpen or Replace Blades Do this as needed to ensure optimal cutting performance. Test for Sharpness Draw a five-point star about the size of a dime on a sheer piece of fabric. Start in the center and cut out to the points. If the star edges are clean, your scissors are sharp enough. If the edges are jagged, you need to sharpen your scissors.

• The templates have a right and wrong side for cutting. One side is beveled the other is not. When cutting make sure that the beveled side is facing your paper. An easy way to make sure your template is correct is to look at the Fiskars logo. If your template is correct you will be able to "Feel" the logo and read it. If you have it upside down the logo will be backwards and smooth. • Hold the template firmly with one hand and the Shape Cutter in the other. Tip: be sure the plastic tip (not the blade) is against the template design. Some people have a tendency to rest the plastic tip on top of the template, as a result the blade never touches the paper. Start with something simple, an oval or a circle. When you mastered those move on to Diamonds and squares. Tip: Always start on a straight edge, never in a corner. After some practice you will feel confident to move onto more difficult shapes such as flowers and letters. Tip: If the blade is pointed towards the template you will leave a small cut in the frame of the design. If the blade is pointed towards the design you will leave a small cut in the design. In order to avoid this try to make your blade parallel with the edge of the template. There are times when you will point your blade one way or the other on purpose. For example, when you are cutting letters such as R, you will cut out the small inside circle first. You want a smooth cut to the outside frame so point your blade to the inside before you start. When cutting the outside point your blade toward the template. In this way you make sure the letter has clean edges all around. • When you do larger designs or borders you will notice that the Shape Cutter has a tendency to tip toward the side where there is not template. This is easily corrected by exerting a little extra pressure with your thumb to keep the Shape Cutter level with the template. Tip: when cutting a border you can place another template along side of the template you are using to keep the Shape Cutter even. What to do when your ShapeCutter Plus doesn’t cut correctly? There are a few of reasons a ShapeCutter might not be cutting correctly. You may need to adjust your blade - If your shapes are not getting cut out cleanly, you will need to adjust the blade down by turning it slightly clockwise. If your shapes are not getting cut out cleanly because the blade seems to be getting stuck too deep in the cutting mat, you will need to adjust the blade up by turning it slightly counter clockwise. If you are certain that your ShapeCutter is adjusted correctly and it still won't cut cleanly, try a new blade. Most issues with a ShapeCutter can be resolved by adjusting or replacing the blade.

It’s possible to use any stamp designs with acrylic paint to produce an effective page background. The look will be less precise than stamping with ink but it makes for an interesting alternative. When decorating your page, choose a stamp that will tie the design together. Then, brush acrylic paint onto the stamp before printing it all over a piece of cardstock. Don’t forget that by using this easy stamping technique, you can quickly create a whole raft of your own patterned papers that will suit any project! Just remember to wash your stamps afterwards. Different stamping techniques: - Simple stamping: Ink your stamp and stamp simply your pattern on cardstock. - Sponging: Use a small sponge you dap lightly onto a piece of paper leaving a distinct sponge look of small dots. - Brayering: Ink up a brayer with ink pad and roll over card to create (for instance vivid or stripd) background. - Chalking: Use cotton wool to apply chalk on already stamped shapes to bring some shadow, nuanced colours. - Heat embossing: Ink up patterns and apply embossing powder. Heat with heat gun to raise the surface. - Thick embossing Wipe ink over card. Sprinkle with embossing powder and heat until melted. Repeat process until you have a thick surface. Press stamp into it and leave in place until the powder cools.

Practice Before beginning a project, practice cutting on scrap paper. Try cutting various paper weights. Practice cutting curves, angle cuts, straight lines and patterned lines. Realigning the Cut After making the first cut, realign a point or curve of the Paper Edgers blade with a corresponding point or curve of that cut, then make the next snip. This will make the design continuous. Easy Edging Use straight scissors to cut out or trim shapes, then edge with Paper Edgers. Cutting Straight Lines To cut a straight line, draw a light line or pattern on the back of the paper, then cut out. Removing Excess Before cutting out intricate shapes or long continuous strips, trim away any excess paper from the project. Cutting out an Inside Area Draw cutlines on backside of paper. With straight-edged scissors, “Poke” a hole in center area. Cut to corners. Cut on cutline with Paper Edgers until excess paper falls away. Paper Choices Paper Edgers work well with a variety of papers such as cardstock, wrapping paper, art papers, wallpaper, watercolor paper, construction paper, or even grocery sacks. Corner Techniques To create a mat that has perfect, identical corners, draw a straight pencil line 2,5 cm longer than the mat edge. With selected Paper Edgers, cut along pencil line. Position this template on the edge of the mat so both corners are identical. Hold securely in place and use as a cutting guide. Perfect corners every time. To Improve Cutting Performance Cut through wax paper and aluminum foil. Rub an eraser over the blades. These two methods will remove paper dust particles, which can hinder a blade’s performance. Oval Shaped Patterns When cutting out oval-shaped patterns, either squeeze or stretch your pattern in the last cuts to achieve a more uniform looking edge.

Blurred pictures: They are oft due to a moving or an action. Choose a dynamic layout repeating for example the picture. You can transfer your picture to black and white or sepia. It increases the blurred atmosphere and bring more originality. Decrease the size of your picture to let place to your message/journaling. Non-centred pictures: It is very important to adapt your layout to create a nice balance. De-centre your picture to the edgers or corners. Think to use the empty space for journaling or heading. Pictures with a bad background: Don’t hesitate to cut your picture. It brings fantasy. You can also sand, paint or tear your picture. Cutting a picture, why? To delete a bad background To emphasize a precise element To share elements to be used in different creations (adhere a face, a shirt and pants from different pictures to create a funny character, adhere different people on a backgroung, adhere different places to tell your travel, adhere different steps of an action…)